April 1st is Užupio Res Publika Independence Day!
It’s not an April Fool’s joke: Residents of the tiny Republic of Užupis, which lays just beyond the River Vilnelė, take their Independence Day very seriously. It all starts with the border patrol on the Užupis Bridge. Dressed in white jumpsuits and 3D glasses, “immigration agents” wait to stamp your passport. Yes, that’s right, you can get an authentic Užupis visa, good for a one day visit!
Look down toward the river as you cross the bridge, and you’ll see the Užupis mermaid decorated with brightly colored kites. Streamers blow in the breeze and portraits (of residents?) float, fixed in the water on Styrofoam blocks.
Already the atmosphere is festive. On the patio of Užupio Kavinė residents and visitors mingle with plastic glasses of “imported” Švyturys. Kids help to paint the Užupio flag, an outline of a hand in blue on a white background, and a jazz band warms up for their first set.
Before the entertainment gets underway, wander down the dirt path along the river to the Užupis gallery. Enjoy the latest exhibition, and take a look at the demonstration of Japanese writing. Outside, there’s a homeless woman getting her picture taken; in the background, colorful sculptures of boats, birds, and other objects are floating, hanging, or blowing in the breeze over the river.
Walk up toward the Užupis Angel, and you’ll notice the banners flying over the street:
If I were a really good journalist, I would have stopped to ask a resident about this year’s theme. Instead, I just took pictures. Užupis is not to be over analyzed. It’s weird, it’s unpredictable, and it marches to beat of its own drum.
Near the angel, they were preparing for the evening’s concert. Pictures drawn by children depicting the theme stood on easels. A small stage with a large screen blocked one of only two roads out of the quarter. I didn’t wait around for the main event, but I saw the three fireworks from my window across the border in Vilnius.
Back at Užupio Kavinė, the jazz band was ready to go. Their opening song? Lucky Man.
Indeed we were all lucky that day. A beer by the river on a beautiful warmish spring afternoon? Not a bad way to spend April 1st!
