Warning: Art Ahead.
In Lithuanian, the word užupis means “beyond the river,” though the Vilnelė River, which divides Užupis from the Vilnius Old Town, is more of a winding creek. In 1997, a group of bohemian artists and writers declared the neighborhood independent and founded the People’s Republic of Užupis. Independence Day is April 1st, and a sign marking the entrance to the district features four distinct symbols including a smiley face and the Mona Lisa warning you of “art ahead.”
When you cross the bridge to Užupis, you are subject to the laws of its constitution. Besides the right to hot water, heating in winter and a tiled roof, citizens retain the “right not to be loved, but not necessarily.” The constitution even extends rights to pets declaring “a cat is not obliged to love its master, but it must help him in difficult times.” Travelers have the right to explore at their own pace, lingering in courtyards and strolling through the forest that sits high above Vilnius’ Sereikiškių Park.
Only a few meters from where the constitution—engraved on mirrors—hangs on Paupio gatvė, is Užupio Picerija (Paupio g. 3). The cozy cafe tossing thin crust pizzas baking them in a real wood oven also makes the best ham and cheese omelets in town. After breakfast, wander toward the main square where the Užupis Angel stands on a plinth leftover from the time when all the Soviet statues were removed from the city. Her trumpet stretches toward the sky as a symbol of freedom and independence for both Užupis and Lithuania.
The small cobblestone streets surrounding the angel are home to art galleries, jewelry stores, antique shops, and even a blacksmith. It’s hard to leave Užupis without a new piece of jewelry or art made by a local Lithuanian artist. At the Blacksmith Gallery (Užupio g. 26) you can watch a master smith at work turning pieces of black forged iron into weather vanes.
Hot days in Užupis are normally spent sipping a local beer on the deck of Užupio kavinė (Užupio g. 2). Not known for their speedy service or even particularly tasty food, the cafe is nearly always full in the summer due to its prime location nestled among the trees on the bank of the Vilnelė. The clientele includes some of the neighborhood’s most “authentic” residents; several well-known artists and poets disguised as local drunks spend long afternoons discussing philosophy, singing traditional songs, and drinking large amounts of vodka. Occasionally offensive, often annoying, their history is as much the history of Užupis as the bronze mermaid perched on the river wall.
Follow the path along the river from Užupio kavine and you will come to the Uzupis Art Incubator. Comprised of the Užupis Alternative Art Center and the Culture and Art department for the City of Vilnius, the UAI features its own gallery and workshops and organizes events such as this summer’s Montmartre convention honoring its artistic ties to the famous Parisian quarter.
There’s nothing like a romantic dinner for two after a lazy day: Užupio klasika (Užupio g. 28), a restaurant so small the only waiter doesn’t even need to leave the bar to take your order, is a nod to old Paris. The menu features Lithuanian specialties such as fresh salmon and wild mushrooms. Try the baravykai (boletus mushrooms) soup or the salmon steak in wine sauce. After dinner, the balcony of Tores restaurant (Užupio g. 40) overlooking Sereikiškių park and the Vilnius art academy is the perfect place to watch a summer sunset.
It is entirely possible to spend a whole day wandering the charming courtyards, pondering philosophy by the river, and spending large amounts of money on quirky art and handmade jewelry in Užupis. Just remember to bring your passport on April 1st when the local army will be out en force controlling its borders, and issuing “visas” to visitors.